Iris x germanica var. Florentina & Iris pallida Lam. 

Natural Irones. For Natural perfumery: Fixative. Classic, Traditional luxury perfumery. 

In soothing body and face care, luxury creams and lotions, massage oils, to fragrance relaxing massage candles. 

For home scented products, diffusion blends: linen sprays, potpourri, and room fresheners.

INCI name: Orris (Iris germanica Florentina & Iris pallida) rhizome absolute 

CAS number: 90045-89-9;8002-73-1

EXTRACTION METHOD: Organic Vacuum distillation from steam distilled Orris concrete/ butter.

PARTS USED: Rhizomes (Roots). Peeled, dried and aged (white iris roots), then cut (comminute) or reduced to powder. 

ORIGIN: Morocco (cultures) and France (Process)

COMMON NAMES: Sweet iris, Bearded iris, Schwertlilien, German bearded iris, Dalmatian Iris.

APPEARANCE: Pale yellow to pale brown, slightly viscous liquid.

ODOUR NOTE: Sweet, floral, powdery, clean, slightly woody aroma; middle to base note. Delicate but powerful. Very good hold. Excellent fixative.

MAIN CONSTITUENTS: min 75% Irones (cis-alpha-Irone, cis-gamma-Irone; alpha-Irone, cis-beta-Irone).

QUALITY: 100 % pure and natural, whole absolute.

STORAGE CONDITION: Store tightly closed, in a cool, dark place away from direct sunlight and heat sources. Keep away from children and pets.

Renown since the antiquities for their overall soothing properties, dried Irises roots (orris)have been used for their health benefit, in traditional remedies around the world, to calm all kinds of inflammations. Reduced to powders there are still added to cream and balms to relieve skin irritations, dry shampoos, oral powders…or included in spice blends and other food, liqueurs and sirups.

But it is as a unique, complex, and magnificent fragrant ingredient that the orris root is prized by generations of master perfumers to add depth and elegance to their very high-end fragrance compositions.

To this day, the orris absolute remains one of the most special aromatic plant extracts.

As a fragrant ingredient, the aroma of Orris is immediately evocative of soft, distinctive, luxurious sensuality. Softly sweet, floral, clean, powdery, warm, and lightly earthy/woody to start with, Orris absolute dries down with a slightly fruity, fresh, and floral scent. It feels soft and gentle but has a powerful radiance and a long hold that justifies its uses as an excellent fixative (as a test: 1 drop, undiluted, on a perfumer’s paper is still clearly noticeable 2 months on).    

Our Orris absolute is obtained from the roots/rhizomes of both Iris x germanica var Florentina and Iris pallida, organically cultivated in Morocco. Once washed, peeled, and left to dry, the roots start developing their special aromatic compounds (Irones). Ands it is only when they have matured and are charged in aromatic molecules, that they are ready for extraction.

Our 100% pure, pourable Absolute of Orris is extracted from the pasty butter/concrete* of dried Iris roots (Orris) by vacuum distillation, a green process that filters out the fatty acids and waxes present in Orris butter/ concrete*, to produce a viscous, limpid extract, highly concentrated in aromatic molecules.

Our Orris absolute is a complete extract (whole) and contains the naturally occurring combination of irones present in the matured dried roots, which, together, give the unique and distinct Orris aroma.

*(technically a pasty essential oil, since Orris concrete is obtained by steam/hydro-distillation)

Good to know:  

1.The aromatic compounds of Iris plants are concentrated in their roots or rhizomes, not in their flowers. 

2. Fresh iris roots do not exhale the amazing fragrance that we associate with Orris scent. The aromatic compounds only develop after the roots are left to dry and mature. As natural reaction to water-loss stress, the sugar molecules (glucosides) present in the roots start metabolizing into highly fragrant Irones. Irones are closely related to Ionones, the fragrant molecules present in Rose damask and violet flowers scent. 

3.Orris is the name given to Iris roots/ rhizomes (I. germanica var. Florentina or I. Pallida or both) when prepared for their aromatic qualities.

4. Dry iris (Orris) root powders were used all over the world throughout history and are still present in traditional herbal remedies (Ayurveda, Chinese...), in cooking preparations (Middle east and North African spices blends, like the famous Moroccan Ras-el-Hanout), and to add flavour into specialty syrups, liqueurs or confectionery.

5.Orris Absolute can stand its own ground as a soliflore (a perfume with just one dominating note) but is considered an excellent fixative for light notes in luxurious perfumes composition.

For info on the process of extraction please go to the more info tab.

• Antispasmodic
• Calming, sedative
• Anti-inflammatory
• Antifungal, antibacterial, antiseptic
• Antioxidant
• Balancing
• Decongestant
• Diuretic

In well-being, Orris absolute oil is used for its overall calming and stress-relieving properties, as well as its ability to soothe and nourish the skin.

• In synergies: for its calming, soothing, and balancing effects. To help calm stress, anxiety, and nervous tensions.
• In chest balms/oils rubs for respiratory ease.
• In natural aromatic skin care creams, balms lotions: for irritated, inflamed skins, dermatitis:  to soothe discomfort, heat, burning sensations, redness, itches and help damaged skins regenerate.
• In antispasmodic massage oils, creams, lotions, balms, cataplasms: Orris absolute oil has been traditionally used for its antispasmodic properties, helping to relieve muscle cramps and spasms (stiff muscles, neck, joints...)
• In anti-inflammatory balms for joints and articulations.
• In oral hygiene, mouth washes and tooth brushing powders for irritated gums. 
• As a decongestant in formula and synergies for chest, coughs, colds, and bronchitis.
• In Diuretic, detox formulas and cellulite massages oils: to help promote the elimination of excess fluids from the body.

In luxury perfumery products

• high class perfumes and floral Bouquet’s compositions.
• As Fragrance Fixative: to help bind and preserve the fragrances in a perfume, ensuring that the scent lasts longer.
• to fragrance leather hats and gloves, facial powders, talcums and powders for wigs, beard and moustaches waxes, linen sachets, soaps, and massage candles.

As a Flavouring Agent in liqueurs (Gins. Ex: Bombay Sapphire) and sweets (“Hundreds and thousands” cakes decorations).

In Cosmetics: 

• In high end fragranced facial care creams, serums, and lotions.
• In hair care: serums, lotions, dry shampoos, and leave-in conditioners. 

Best for natural perfumery, and naturally fragranced cosmetics, in stay on products (lotions, creams, body oils, facial/hair serums…). For aromatherapy diffusing synergies and localized massages oils/balms compositions. 

For all skin-contact applications, always dilute in an appropriate carrier (blends intended for other than aerial (diffusers, room or linen sprays…) applications).

Like all absolutes, Orris absolute is used very sparingly, at low concentrations: 

Less than 1% in your final preparations is enough to produce a noticeable aroma (1% is 2 drops per 10 ml/ 2 teaspoons of base of your choice)

For ease of use and dosage, but also to reveal the true nature of your absolute aroma, you may choose to create a “concentrate” (See below Perfume), rather than using the pure absolute neat and directly, in your creations: dilute a few drops of this pure absolute when you receive it, in a perfumer’s base or in carrier oil (according to your end use or preferences). 

You then add a few drops of your concentrate, at the safe dosage mentioned below for the applications that you have in mind. 

Note that natural and pure absolutes do not dissolve in water or water-based products.

For natural Perfumery, Perfumes: 

Beside it’s obvious role as a fragrance component in perfumes, colognes, and other scented products, Orris absolute oil can be used as a fixative. It can be blended with other essential oils, such as rose, sandalwood, or jasmine, to create unique fragrances.

This is a pure, very concentrated, undiluted, whole absolute. Only a very few drops (or low concentrations) are needed to achieve the most beautiful results.

Orris absolute is very tenacious and is typically used as base note and a fixative in Floral accords. 

To create a concentrate: 

• Dilute your absolute in a perfumer’s base or a carrier oil (Jojoba, Fractionated Coconut Oil…), depending on your preferences and end uses. 
• Try using 16 drops of absolute per 10ml perfumer’s base/ neutral carrier oil. You can start with lower concentrations and adjust to your liking to express all the layers and subtilities of this absolute. (Some perfumers like using a 50% dilution as a ratio for their Orris concentrate- 5ml absolute per 10ml perfumer’s base or neutral carrier oil)
• In a clean, dark glass bottle add the number of drops to your preferred base, close, shake and label. Let infuse and keep your vial in a dark, cool place until needed. Use your pre-diluted absolute, a few drops at a time, as it will still be very concentrated and intense.

For Massages, scented oils & body care:

Make your pre-dilution by adding a few drops of your orris absolute oil in a neutral scented carrier oil, at a concentration of around 1-2% (6 to12 drops of orris absolute oil per 30 ml of carrier oil). 

You can then use a few drops of this blend in you preferred massages or perfumed oils creations. (Neutral scented such as Jojoba, Macadamia, or sweet almond oil or in a naturally fragranced carrier, like green tea Camelia, Calendula, Daisy, Coffee, Vanilla infused, Coconut virgin, Sandalwood nut oil…).

• For Body & Hair care, use 1 to 6 drops of the pre-diluted absolute oil per 10 ml carrier or base (0.5 to 2 % concentration) 

Always perform a patch test on a small area of skin before applying the mixture to larger areas, as some people may have an allergic reaction to the oil.

• For natural Facial skincare: for your luxurious and soothing face care routines, use your concentrate diluted in a carrier oil, lotion, or cream at a concentration of 0.5 to 1% (use 1 to 2 drops of your pre-diluted absolute oil per 10 ml, 3-6 drops per 30 ml). 

Always perform a patch test on a small area of skin before applying the mixture to larger areas, as some people may have an allergic reaction to the oil.

Luxury soothing Diffusion

• Add 1 drop in a synergy with other essential oils. Use a few drops of your blend in your ultrasonic diffuser, to create a classy and elegantly soothing atmosphere: diffuse for10 min 3 times a day. 
• Add 1 drop directly to a diffuser and fill your space with its calming and soothing aroma.
• Inhalation: For a quick way to enjoy the aroma of orris absolute oil or to help with stress and anxiety, add 1drop to a tissue or a cotton ball and slowly inhale.

For more detailed information, please go check this LINK TO Instructions of use essential oils page

DO NOT USE UNDILUTED and SEEK MEDICAL AND SPECIALIST ADVISE WHEN IN DOUBT.

SEE OUR PAGE ON PRECAUTION - HOW TO USE ESSENTIAL OILS SAFELY

• All floral and fougere accords.
• Flowery: Lilly of the valley natural fragrance, Mimosa absolute, Rose damask, Ylang-ylang, Mimosa, Violet, Rose geranium, Jasmine, 
• Woody: Sandalwood, Juniper berry, Ambrette, Amyris,
• Fresh citrus and woody: Lentisque, Mandarin, Neroli, Jasmine, Tonka Bean absolute, Sandalwood, Cedarwood
• Spiced fruity: Frankincense, Blackcurrant absolute, Violet absolute, Cinnamon, Tonka Bean absolute, Peru Balsam, Vetiver, Vanilla absolute, Myrrh, Iris, Labdanum.
• Woody & flowery: Rose damascena, Jasmine, Lavender, Rose Geranium, Ylang-ylang, Sandalwood album, Cedarwood.
• Vibrant citrus and herbs: Bergamot, Orange, Lemon, Neroli, Frankincense, Clary sage, Patchouli, Vetiver.

• Extraction process
• To obtain an aromatic product, the Iris roots or rhizomes must be dried and matured. This drying period triggers a natural defence/reaction mechanism that produces Irones. Traditionally, long drying periods of 3-5 years are necessary to achieve the full development of Irone (the fragrant molecules) in the roots. Modern methods involve drying under controlled heated environments (30°c), to desiccate the rhizomes faster and yield a higher percentage of irone (drying time is reduced to days rather than years). 
• When fully dried and charged in irone, the roots are shredded/cut into small pieces, or reduced to powder before heading to extraction:
• Hydro/steam distillation. The true essential oil obtained is a waxy, thick yellow pasty extract and is commercially referred to as Orris butter or Orris concrete because of its texture but is, in technical term, an essential oil. 
• The concrete/butter is vacuum distilled to remove the waxy content (myristic and palmitic acids) and to give a pure concentrated liquid absolute.

Different extract from orris and their concentration in Irone.

• Orris absolute (our absolute): with the highest irone content, between 60% -85% irones.
• Orris concrete/butter which typically contains between 10-35% irones and Myristic acid. 
• Orris resinoid: obtained by solvent extraction of Orris powder, gives a viscous brown paste that is referred to as Orris resinoid. The Orris resinoids typically contain between 1 and 3% irones.
• Most commercial perfumes mentioning “Iris” these days use an isolated (or often synthetic) version of the alpha-irone molecule.

Note: Orris absolute oil should never be ingested, and it is not recommended for internal use. Additionally, it should be kept out of reach of children and pets.

It is important to note that while orris absolute oil has been reported to have various benefits and properties, individual experiences and results may vary. 

Always use essential oils with caution and under the guidance of a qualified practitioner, especially if you have any pre-existing medical conditions or are pregnant or breastfeeding.

Do not use during the first 3 months of pregnancy / breastfeeding 

Keep out of reach of children and pets.

As a general rule, always perform a skin patch test before using your essential oils for the first time.

DO NOT USE UNDILUTED and seek medical and specialist advise when in doubt