The Ultimate Guide to Serums: Water vs. Oil & How to Make Your Own
Ever felt a bit lost in the world of skincare, wondering what a "serum" actually is? You’re not alone. The term is used for many different products, but the concept is simple.
In short, a serum is a potent, concentrated treatment designed to deliver a powerful dose of active ingredients to your skin.
But here’s the key secret: not all serums are created equal. To find what's right for you, it helps to understand the two main families.
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Water-Based (Aqueous) Serums: Their job is to hydrate and deliver water-soluble actives (like Vitamin C or botanical extracts) deep into the skin.
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Oil-Based (Anhydrous) Serums: Their job is to nourish and protect by sealing in moisture and strengthening your skin's outer barrier.
Let's explore both, starting with the one that forms the heart of our natural collections.
🌿 Part 1: The Nourisher — Oil-Based Serums (Face Oils)
This is where the power of nature, aromatherapy, and traditional wisdom truly shines. An oil-based serum is, quite simply:
A potent, curated blend of Carrier Oils and (optionally) Essential Oils.
That's right! The premium, nutrient-rich oils we specialise in are one of the original and most effective forms of serum.
What They Are: They are based on "carrier oils" (like Rosehip, Jojoba, Argan, or Baobab). These oils are packed with their own "active" nutrients: essential fatty acids, vitamins (like A, E, and K), and antioxidants.
What They Do: Their primary job is to nourish, soften, and protect. Their molecules work on the upper layers of your skin (the epidermis) and, most importantly, they repair and protect your skin's natural barrier. This barrier is what locks moisture in and keeps pollutants out.
Think of them as: A "protective seal" or a "nutritious meal" that feeds your skin and keeps it safe, soft, and glowing.
When you add essential oils (like Lavender, Frankincense, or Geranium) to a carrier oil, you are simply boosting your oil-based serum with even more targeted, powerful, and natural active ingredients.
💧 Part 2: The Hydrator — Water-Based Serums
These are the most common "serums" you'll find on the market, known for their fast-absorbing, lightweight feel.
What They Are: They have a water, aloe, or glycerin base. Their texture is almost watery or gel-like, and they absorb into the skin in seconds.
What They Do: Their job is to hydrate and deliver water-soluble ingredients (like Hyaluronic Acid, Vitamin C, and the actives from botanical tinctures) deep into the skin's layers.
Think of them as: A powerful "drink of water" for your skin's deeper cells.
DIY Guide: How to Turn Botanical Tinctures into a Simple Skin Serum
Instead of buying a pre-made water-based serum, you can easily make your own. This allows you to create a fresh, preservative-free product perfectly tailored to your skin's needs using your botanical tinctures.
Why Make Your Own Serum?
Personalized Skincare: Tailor your serum to your unique skin needs by choosing the extracts and actives that suit you best.
Freshness: Homemade serums are fresher, with no unnecessary preservatives or fillers.
Control Over Ingredients: Avoid unwanted chemicals, fragrances, or allergens by selecting every ingredient yourself.
Cost-Effective: Making your own serum often costs less than buying premium pre-made products.
What Can You Use as Your Botanical Base?
You can use either alcoholic tinctures or hydroglycerin tinctures as your botanical extract base. Both deliver plant actives to your skin, but:
Alcoholic tinctures: Use the lower end of the dosage for sensitive skin. Alcohol can help with penetration but may be drying for some.
Hydroglycerin tinctures: Gentler and more hydrating, suitable for sensitive or dry skin.
You can also use hydrosols (floral waters) or distilled water as part of your serum for extra hydration or to dilute the formula for sensitive skin.
What You Will Need
Botanical Tincture (alcoholic or hydroglycerin)
Aloe Vera Gel (main base)
Hyaluronic Acid Serum (1% or 1.5%)
Vegetable Glycerine
Vitamin E Oil
Vitamin C Serum (optional)
Hydrosol or Distilled Water (optional, for dilution or added hydration)
Sterilized dropper bottle
Clean mixing bowl and spoon
Basic Serum Formula
Use this table to build your custom serum. 1 ml is approximately 20 drops. We recommend starting with a small 10ml or 30ml batch.
| Ingredient | Ratio (% of Total) | Function / Notes |
| Aloe Vera Gel | 70–80% | Hydrating, soothing base |
| Hyaluronic Acid Serum | 10–15% | Deep hydration; use 1% or 1.5% |
| Botanical Tincture | 5–10% | Active extract; start low for sensitive skin |
| Vegetable Glycerine | 2–5% | Moisturising; adjust for skin type |
| Vitamin E Oil | 1–2% (optional) | Antioxidant, skin barrier support |
| Vitamin C Serum | 5–10% (optional) | Brightening, antioxidant |
| Hydrosol/Distilled Water | Up to 10% (optional) | For dilution or extra hydration |
Dosage Table: Drops for 10ml, 30ml, and 50ml Serum
| Ingredient | 10ml Serum (drops) | 30ml Serum (drops) | 50ml Serum (drops) |
| Aloe Vera Gel | 140–160 | 420–480 | 700–800 |
| Hyaluronic Acid Serum | 20–30 | 60–90 | 100–150 |
| Botanical Tincture | 10–20 | 30–60 | 50–100 |
| Vegetable Glycerine | 4–10 | 12–30 | 20–50 |
| Vitamin E Oil (opt.) | 2–4 | 6–12 | 10–20 |
| Vitamin C Serum (opt.) | 10–20 | 30–60 | 50–100 |
| Hydrosol (opt.) | Up to 20 | Up to 60 | Up to 100 |
Step-by-Step: Making Your Custom Serum
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Choose Your Base: Add your Aloe Vera Gel to a clean, sterilized mixing bowl.
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Add Hydration: Mix in your Hyaluronic Acid Serum.
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Add Botanical Tincture: Carefully measure out your chosen tincture (see dosage table). Remember to use the lower-end dose for alcohol-based tinctures if you have sensitive skin.
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Add Optional Ingredients:
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Add Vegetable Glycerine for extra moisture.
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Add Vitamin E oil for antioxidant protection.
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Add Vitamin C serum for brightening.
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Add a splash of Hydrosol (like Rose or Chamomile) to adjust the texture or add soothing properties.
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Blend Thoroughly: Mix all ingredients until you have a smooth, consistent gel-like serum.
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Bottle and Store: Carefully pour your serum into a sterilized dropper bottle (preferably dark glass).
Important: Store your homemade serum in the fridge. Because it's fresh and contains no strong preservatives, it's best used within 2-4 weeks.
Part 3: Putting It All Together — How to Layer Your Serums
Now that you know the difference, how do you use them?
The golden rule of skincare is to apply products from thinnest to thickest.
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Step 1: Cleanse
Always start with a clean face.
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Step 2: Water-Based Serum
Apply your hydrating, water-based serum (like the DIY one you just made!) to your clean, damp skin. It will absorb quickly to deliver its active ingredients deep down.
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Step 3: Moisturiser (Optional)
If you use a traditional cream or lotion, apply it now.
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Step 4: Oil-Based Serum (Your Face Oil)
This is your final, "sealing" step. Warm 3-5 drops of your oil blend (e.g., Jojoba with a drop of Geranium) in your palms and gently press it into your face and neck. This locks in the hydration from your water-based serum and moisturizer and protects your skin barrier.
Do I Need Both?
It all depends on your skin's needs:
For Dry or Mature Skin: Using both is a fantastic combination. The water-based serum provides deep hydration, and the oil-based serum locks it in, providing the rich nourishment this skin type craves.
For Oily or Combination Skin: Don't be afraid of oils! An oil-based serum like Jojoba can actually help balance your skin's own sebum. You may find a water-based serum is perfect for the day and a light oil-based serum is all you need at night.
For "Normal" or Sensitive Skin: You can choose based on preference. A beautiful Rosehip Oil can be your all-in-one serum and moisturiser, or you can layer as described above when you feel you need an extra boost of hydration.
Empower yourself to create a routine that’s as unique as your skin!