Orris Absolute Oil
(Iris × germanica var. Florentina & Iris pallida)
Product Identification
| Property | Details |
|---|---|
| INCI Name | Orris (Iris germanica Florentina & Iris pallida) Rhizome Absolute |
| CAS Number | 90045-89-9; 8002-73-1 |
| Extraction Method | Organic vacuum distillation from steam distilled Orris concrete/butter |
| Parts Used | Rhizomes (roots) — peeled, dried, aged, cut or powdered |
| Origin | Morocco (cultivation) & France (processing) |
| Common Names | Sweet Iris, Bearded Iris, German Bearded Iris, Dalmatian Iris, Schwertlilien |
| Appearance | Pale yellow to pale brown, slightly viscous liquid |
| Odour Note | Sweet, floral, powdery, clean, slightly woody; middle-to-base note; delicate but powerful; very long-lasting; excellent fixative |
| Main Constituents | min. 75% Irones (cis-alpha-, cis-gamma-, alpha-, cis-beta-Irone) |
| Quality | 100% pure, natural, whole absolute |
| Storage | Store tightly closed in a cool, dark place away from sunlight/heat. Keep away from children & pets |
Aroma & Historical Background
Orris Absolute is revered as one of the most precious raw materials in natural perfumery. Obtained from the aged and dried rhizomes of Iris × germanica var. Florentina and Iris pallida, it is exceptionally rich in natural irones — aromatic molecules closely related to the violet and rose fragrances.
Historically:
Used as a soothing herbal remedy in traditional medicine (anti-inflammatory, calming, digestive aids, oral care powders).
Infused in spice mixes, liqueurs (notably some gins), confectionery, and syrups.
Immensely prized in classic luxury perfumery for unparalleled depth, softness, and longevity.
Scent Profile:
Soft, sweet, floral, clean, and powdery with a warm, lightly woody-earthy undertone. The dry-down is fruity, fresh, and floral. Its tenacity is remarkable — a test drop can still be detected on a fragrance blotter two months later.
Key Benefits & Properties
| Area | Effects & Benefits |
|---|---|
| Emotional Wellbeing | Calming, anti-anxiety, stress relief, balancing |
| Skin Care | Soothing, anti-inflammatory, regenerative; eases redness, irritation, dermatitis |
| Body Care | Antispasmodic (relieves cramps, muscular tension), joint-soothing, improves circulation |
| Aromatherapy | Supports relaxation, emotional stability, respiratory ease in vapour blends |
| Therapeutic | Antioxidant, antiseptic, antifungal, antibacterial |
| Perfumery | Outstanding fixative for floral and citrus top notes; high-class perfumery base/middle note |
Common Uses
Natural Perfumery – base/middle note & fixative for floral, citrus, woody, and oriental blends
Luxury Skin & Hair Care – creams, serums, lotions, conditioners, beard waxes, hair pomades
Massage Oils & Candles – soothing, relaxing, aroma-rich
Home Fragrance – linen sprays, pot-pourri, room mists
Specialty – scenting luxury powders, gloves, hats, soaps; flavouring gins, liqueurs, and sweets (food-grade material only)
Blends Well With
Floral: Rose Damascena, Jasmine, Mimosa, Violet, Lily of the Valley, Ylang-Ylang
Woody: Sandalwood, Juniper Berry, Amyris, Cedarwood
Citrus: Bergamot, Orange, Lemon, Mandarin, Neroli
Spiced/Fruity: Frankincense, Blackcurrant Bud, Violet Leaf, Cinnamon, Tonka Bean, Peru Balsam, Vetiver, Vanilla, Myrrh, Labdanum
Aromatic/Herbal: Lavender, Clary Sage, Patchouli, Lentisque
Usage Guidelines
Orris Absolute is highly concentrated; always dilute before skin application.
Less than 1% in final product is often sufficient (≈2 drops per 10 ml).
Concentrate Method:
Dilute 16 drops absolute in 10 ml perfumer’s alcohol or neutral carrier oil (e.g., jojoba). This makes a workable concentrate that still offers strong aroma.
| Application | Safe Dilution & Notes |
|---|---|
| Perfume creation | 0.5–1% in fine fragrances |
| Body massage oils | 0.5–2% (6–12 drops / 30 ml carrier) |
| Facial skin care | 0.5–1% (1–2 drops / 10 ml base) |
| Hair products | 0.5–2% in leave-ins or conditioning serums |
| Diffusion | 1 drop blended with other essential oils |
| Home fragrance | In linen sprays, potpourri, wax sachets |
Example Recipes
1. Elegant Iris Perfume Oil
2 drops Orris Absolute (pre-diluted)
3 drops Rose Absolute
1 drop Sandalwood Essential Oil
10 ml Jojoba Oil
2. Relaxing Massage Oil
2 drops Orris Absolute (pre-diluted)
4 drops Lavender Essential Oil
4 drops Neroli Essential Oil
30 ml Sweet Almond Oil
3. Skin-Soothing Luxury Cream
3 drops Orris Absolute (pre-diluted)
Blend into 50 ml neutral fragrance-free cream
Good to Know
Orris scent comes from the rhizomes, not the flowers.
Fresh roots have no aroma — natural aging (traditionally 3–5 years) develops ironone compounds, related to molecules in violet & rose.
Our extraction method yields the highest irone content (60–85%) — the key to its luxurious scent and fixative power.
Most mass-market “iris” scents are synthetic — true Orris Absolute remains rare and costly.
Safety Information
Do not use undiluted
Avoid during first 3 months of pregnancy and while breastfeeding
Perform a skin patch test before first use
For external use only; do not ingest
Some natural allergens may be present — test first
Keep away from children and pets
Summary
Orris Absolute (Iris × germanica var. Florentina & Iris pallida) is among the most exquisite treasures of botanical perfumery, delivering a velvety, powdery-floral aroma with exceptional longevity.
From high-end fragrances to luxury skincare, it bestows elegance, refinement, and timeless sophistication — all while offering soothing benefits for skin and senses.